Up to date Health issues in the Northern Inuit dog coming soon ..........
**Please Note the Northern Inuit dog is not Registered with the UK Kennel Club**
The Northern Inuit is faithful, friendly and placid. Rarely aggressive or showing any guarding tendencies, and will usually submit when challenged, but as every breed youdo get exceptions to the rule.
They mix well with other pets, and because of their friendly personalities they love the companionship of other dogs and very rarely argue.
They are a loyal companion they make great family members and like to be included in everything the family does.
They love children and are happy to play games for hours.
They do not like being left alone for long, and if are can be very destructive, Inuits are better having another dog around for company, but the companion dog must be able to to put up with the boisterous rough and tumble play of the northern inuit.
Northern Inuits love to learn, they need early socialization otherwise they tend to 'spook' easily when faced with something new.
Providing the owner is prepared to spend plenty of time from the moment they arrive home training them,then they can be safely let off lead. They can be obedience trained and with lots of praise and encouragement they become very good at it. They love agility, (We do this with our older dogs) Some even do heel work to music,and many owners are now training their dogs to pull rigs, ( this we are doing with our girls) they have however got a very short attention span, and will usually do things a couple of times before saying that's it, im fed up now what next..............
If you are a lover of plants and nice gardens the northern Inuit is NOT the dog for you, as they too love plants (to chew) and grass (too dig), most owners now have concrete gardens or an area in the garden for humans only.
You need to have patience to own a northern Inuit and a good sense of humour is a must.
Health Of The Northern Inuit Dog
Like many large breed dogs the Northern Inuit can suffer from hip dysplacia, therefore when looking to buy a puppy it is wise to check that the hip scores of the parents are below that of the breed average. The current BMS for the Northern Inuit is 15. The Northern Inuit Society requires that all Northern Inuit’s born after Jan 2006 are to be hip scored and Northern Inuits born from Jan 2009 are to be elbow scored,and have received a satisfactory result before being bred from. Also remember that as with any large breed dog, restriction of excersie in the first year is wise, as these dogs grow at a fast rate and this will help with unnecessary pressure on all of the joints. Follow the 5 minute rule. 5 Minutes of exercise for each month of age is a great guideline.
Northern Inuit’s can also be prone to sensitive tummies, This is why a lot of Northern Inuit owners choose the Raw food diet, as these dogs do very well on it, also a good quality natural kibble works well with these dogs.
Retained testicles in males are not uncommon in this breed, so this is something to think about if wanting a future stud dog, all our dogs are sold as pets only with the possibility of restriction being lifted.
Their have been a few cases of Epilepsy in this breed and this is being monitored to see if it is a hereditary condition.
It has come to light that some lines have the Degenerative Myelopathy Gene ...This is not a problem if all breeding dogs are tested and no carrier to carrier are bred together, or effected to carrier. If a carrier is bred to a clear then that is OK.
The NORTHERN INUIT Dog Breed Standard
A dog of medium build, athletic but never racy.
HEAD: Not too broad, skull slightly domed. Muzzle equal in length to skull, strong and gently tapering. Cheeks flat. Nose preferably black but a ‘snow nose’ is permitted. Nostrils large. Slight stop. Lips close fitting and black. Perfect scissor bite.
EARS: Fairly wide apart but not low set. Not too large, carried erect.
EYES: Oval and set at a slightly oblique angle. any Colour permitted.
NECK: Strong and muscular with a well defined nape.
FOREQUARTERS: Shoulders flat. Moderately angulated upper arm but shoulder blades well laid back. Elbows fitting close to the chest which must not be too broad ( approx 4 finger width between front legs ) or drop below the elbow. Distance from ground to elbow slightly greater than that from elbow to withers. Oval bone, neither too heavy or too light, pasterns upright but flexible. Feet oval and toes open and well knuckled. Pads black and well cushioned with hair.
BODY: Topline level, Ribs long to give overall proportions of height to length as 10 – 9, well sprung from the spine but flattening on the sides to allow the elbows to move freely. Loin short and deep with no exaggerated tuck up. Croup broad and fairly short but not steep. The tail is a smooth continuation of the croup and must reach no further than the point of the hock. May be lifted when excited and carried upright or sickle in movement.
HINDQUARTERS: Well angulated with broad, muscular thighs, the strength being carried through to the second thigh. Hocks short and perpendicular to the ground. Upright when viewed from the rear. Feet oval, can have five rear toes. Removal of dewclaws optional.
COAT: Dense, waterproof double coat, slightly coarse in texture. Body coat 3 – 5 cm. Longer on ruff and breechings. Tail bushy.
GAIT: Far reaching, covering the ground with an easy stride.
SIZE: Height: Bitches-Minimum 23” (59 cm) Maximum -28” (71 cm)
Dogs- Minimum 25” (64 cm.) Maximum 30” (76 cm)
Overall balance more important than size.
Pure white or any Colour Sable from Grey or Apricot through to pure black. White faces permitted on any Colour. Masklike or cap like markings permitted on the faces of any Colour other than whites. Where white appears on the legs and feet the Colour change must be gradual.
Friendly, placid and out going, great with children, not aggressive.
Note. Males should have two apparently normal testicles descended into the scrotum.
FAULTS: Curly tails, long or single coats, Ink Marked, black and tan colours. Cow or sickle hocks. Any departure from the standard should be considered a fault;
the seriousness with which the fault is regarded should be in proportion to its degree.
STANDARD COURTESY OF THE NORTHERN INUIT SOCIETY...